When working with sequined fabrics I cut the sequins in half, removing as many as possible from where I will be seaming. Cutting the sequins into pieces and not cutting the threads eliminates the resulting “run” which results in a large loss of sequins. Even trimming part of the sequin from where your seam will be sown helps. If you remove even some of them the needle has to work a lot less and usually results in fewer needle breaks.
I use the liquid sewers aid when sewing sequins and only use a ballpoint 80/12 and haven’t broken a needle yet. I probably will now after writing this but, it is worth it if it helps someone out. The sewers aid reduces the friction of the thread and needle thru the sequin. apply it both to your spool of thread and periodically let some just slide down your needle. Good Luck!
I took a course in Tambour beading from a woman who does quite elegant gowns applying both beads and sequins. She was quite clear that what you need to do is to remove any sequins from the seam allowance area before you sew the fabric. It made a lot of sense to me. You wouldn’t want those sequins on the inside. What you need to do is to see if the sequins are attached with a chain stitch because if they are, you may end up removing more sequins than you intended to. You need to pay attention to that fabric before you sew.
June 30, 2009 at 5:06 am
I have a question that maybe you can address on the blog – sewing sequined fabrics. I have broken so many needles but I love the look – any tips to avoid using dozens of needles for just one outfit? thanks!
July 1, 2009 at 2:38 am
I’ve not used sequined fabric, but have sewn quite a bit of stretch sequins. I just go VERY slowly and use a heavy needle size 90/14. Have you tried the titanium needles? They might be stronger.